Falling Heddle Over Heels: An Interview with Katie Strano

Today we're sharing an interview with Katie Strano, founder of the one-woman weaving studio Heddle Over Heels. You may know Katie from her popular Gist patterns, including Embossed Towels, Aurora Scarf, and her Cramming and Denting Technique Trio. In addition to designing, Katie is also a teacher and production weaver who believes in adding beauty to life through objects which are as lovely as they are useful. Enjoy!

Let's start with a bit of background. How did you become interested in weaving?

I came to weaving a little later in life than some. I went to college for History and Sociology, and weaving wasn’t even a whisper of an idea at that time. I always liked making things and sewing, but I never really focussed in on one thing. After college I began working for a small local store in Nashville, TN and became more interested in making clothes for myself and in slow fashion. I began to wonder about how far back in the making process I could go and started to think more about woven cloth. At that point I had neither the time, nor resources to even attempt weaving—it all seemed so big and lofty.

It wasn’t until a big family move back near my husband’s hometown in Connecticut that I found myself in between jobs and with some down time. We were out driving around one day and stumbled upon a local craft center and low and behold they had a weaving studio. I think I signed up for a rigid heddle class that day and never looked back. I then took a floor loom class and a few months later had my first new-to-me floor loom. 

Katie in her early days of weaving, ca. 2016

You teach rigid heddle and floor loom classes—what do you enjoy most about teaching?

I really enjoy seeing people have the spark when a new weaver begins to get it. There are those moments when something clicks and it is so fun seeing adults be happy and proud of themselves for learning something new. Weaving has also had a massively positive impact on my life, and it has given me so much pleasure. It’s wonderful to be able to share that with others. 

How do you approach sourcing the yarns you work with?

When choosing fibers I first consider what the purpose of the textile is and how it is going to be used. I want to set each textile up for as much success as possible. From there I think about scope, quantities needed, and design aesthetic. When I am creating items for my own line I love being able to use deadstock yarns when I can.

Glacier Scarf, woven in 100% Merino Wool

You take on a wide range of work, including custom fabric commissions. How did that offering emerge?

Years ago, back in my very early weaving days, I began making some tops out of my handwoven fabrics. Like so many of us do, I had fun posting them on instagram. At this point I had a small Etsy shop but I in no way would have called myself a professional weaver. One day I received a message from the ladies at Jamie + the Jones. They were a lovely small clothing line based out of Nashville and they wanted to know if I could weave some yardage for them to use for one of their core tops. I said yes, and quickly had to learn a lot about weaving a lot of yardage at once. Over the years I think that I ended up weaving a couple hundred yards of fabric for them and it was a really wonderful opportunity. 

Handwoven yardage

Do you have a favorite loom?

I feel bad picking favorites but, apart from my first rigid heddle loom, the loom that I’ve now been weaving on the longest is a 16-shaft AVL production dobby loom affectionately called Dobs. It is about the same age as I am and I am the third owner. When I first got the loom it had a mechanical dobby box on it and that is how I wove on it until very recently when I (with a huge amount of help from my husband, Ben) finally got the compu-dobby head that it came with working. With that being said, I love all looms and still enjoy working on my rigid heddle looms as well. 

Katie's beloved Dobs

Do you have an all-time favorite piece you’ve woven?

Again, it’s difficult  to pick favorites, but I would say the piece that I am currently the most proud of is a set of blankets called Flow that were woven for an exhibition at MANITOGA  / The Russel Wright Design Center that I was asked to be a part of last year. These blankets were to be displayed in the guest bedroom and were meant to reference the small waterfall outside of the window. The center decided to purchase them for their permanent collection and the blankets are now on display there.

Flow Blankets

Any techniques you are particularly enamored with right now?

I’m always rather infatuated with Deflected Doubleweave. It is so satisfying to see it developing on the loom. 

Rittenhouse Squares Throw Blanket, woven in Deflected Doubleweave

This or That Hand Towels - Picnic, woven in Deflected Doubleweave

What inspires you?

Though perhaps a bit cliche, I get a lot of inspiration from nature. In both colors and designs and textures. 

What do you like to listen to while you work?

I listen to a lot of podcasts and audio books. For better or worse, usually true crime or something kind of fun and woo-woo. 

Do you have any advice for new weavers?

Be patient with yourself and allow for play, and experimentation. Over the years I started to think more that proficiency in something doesn’t mean that you never make mistakes, but rather that you get better at spotting and fixing your mistakes.