Streamline Your Weaving: How To Tie A New Warp Onto An Existing Warp

by Carolyn Heacock

Weaving is a slow craft, and many dedicated weavers embrace that pace. Still, efficiency has its appeal, especially for multi-shaft weavers. One way to streamline the process is by tying a new warp onto an existing one.

Benefits of Tying a New Warp to an Existing One

Tying on a new warp offers many advantages:

Preserves warping accuracy by eliminating the need to re-sley the reed and re-thread the heddles.
Extends an existing warp, making it easier to extend a project with the same warp and threading.
Enables color changes while keeping the same threading. For example, if you want to weave several sets of towels using different color palettes but the same threading, tying a new warp onto a previous one is a good option. In addition, since certain threadings can produce a variety of patterns if the tie-up and/or treadling is altered, weavers can create projects that look quite different, both in terms of yarn and pattern, without re-sleying the reed and re-threading the heddles.
Reduces yarn waste, which saves money.
Saves time – once you’ve mastered the technique. Personally, it didn’t save me time at first, but now that I’m comfortable with the process, it’s much more efficient.

Potential Drawbacks of the Tie-On Method

Despite its benefits, this method has a few limitations.

Limited flexibility. The number of ends, sleying, threading, and sett must match the previous warp.
Learning curve. Many weavers use a weaver’s knot; however, it can take practice to master.
Monotony. Tying knots can feel tedious compared to threading heddles.
Knot issues. Knots may snag or break when pulled through the reed and heddles if they aren’t small and secure.
Tension challenges. Careful winding is essential to avoid uneven tension.

Tying on a New Warp: The Complete Process

There are four major steps to tying a new warp onto an existing one.

Cutting off the existing warp.
Preparing the new warp.
Tying the new warp to the existing warp.
Winding the new warp onto the loom.

Each step can be done in different ways; the following is the method I use.

Cutting off the Previous Warp

If multiple threads pass through each dent in the reed, tie the beater bar to the front breast beam, leaving several inches between the front breast beam and heddles. This makes it easier to see the thread order when tying on the new warp.
Cut the old warp near the front breast beam, leaving enough length to tie on the new warp.
- Work in 1-2” wide sections. After cutting each section, secure it with a knot close to the reed to prevent threads from slipping through the reed and heddles.
- Ensure that the cut is even across the loom.

Preparing the New Warp

Wind the new warp. To calculate loom waste, add the distance from the back beam to the cloth fell line, plus any waste at the front of the loom.
Add choke ties to the new warp, especially at the cross.

Tying the New Warp to the Previous Warp

Tape or tie one end of lease sticks to the front breast beam. (I use blue painter’s tape.)
Slide the new warp onto the lease sticks, centering the cross.
Tape or tie the other end of the lease sticks to the opposite side of the loom.
Cut the end (loop) of the new warp.
Untie the outermost section of old warp on one side of the reed. (See previous image.)
Tie the outermost threads from the old and new warps together using a secure knot. (See section on knot options for this below.)
Continue tying thread pairs across each section, testing the security of each knot as you go. If more than one thread is going through each dent, take care to match the old and new warp pairs accurately.
Untie the next section of the warp and repeat the process.
Trim knot ends to about 1”. Longer ends may interfere with the heddles during the final inches of weaving.
Once the knots are tied, the warp may appear a bit messy—but don’t worry. It will all come together beautifully.

Final steps

Slowly wind the new warp onto the warp beam until the knots reach the front of the reed.
Gently guide the knots through the reed.
Continue winding slowly to move the knots through the heddles. Pause as needed to jiggle knots through. Check for any untied knots and retie them securely.
Wind the rest of the warp onto the warp beam, leaving enough warp so it can be tied onto the front apron rod. Monitor tension throughout.
Remove the lease sticks and untie the beater bar.
Tie the new warp onto the front apron rod as usual.

Once these steps are complete, you’re ready to start weaving!

Knot Options for Tying on a New Warp

When tying a new warp to an existing one, choosing the right knot is key. Here are two commonly used options:

Weaver’s Knot

I recommend the weaver’s knot for several reasons.

Secure – When tied tightly, it holds firm and won’t come undone.
Low Profile – Its flat structure allows it to pass easily through the reed and heddles with minimal snagging.
Versatile – Works well with most yarn types. However, it may not be ideal for very fine or slippery yarns like silk. Always test the knot’s strength before committing to an entire warp.

Overhand Knot

The overhand knot is also a solid alternative for those who prefer a simpler option. Many weavers use it successfully.

Simple – Quick to tie and easy to learn.
Secure – Holds well when tied correctly and snugly.
Versatile – Like the weaver’s knot, it works with most fibers. However, it may be less effective with very fine or slippery yarns.
Bulky – Its larger size can cause snagging, especially when weaving with thicker yarns or passing through tight heddles and reed dents. If you prefer to weave with thicker yarns, the weaver’s knot may be a better option.

Tips and Troubleshooting

Avoid tying knots under tension: Loosen the warp threads slightly before tying. Tension makes it harder to secure knots properly and can lead to slippage during weaving.
Test each knot: After tying each knot, give it a firm tug to ensure it’s tight and secure.
Carefully match old and new warp threads: When multiple threads share a reed dent, make sure each replacement thread aligns precisely with its original partner. Misalignment can lead to uneven tension, crossed threads, or inconsistent shed during weaving.
Practice on scrap yarn: Before committing to a full warp, test your chosen knot on a few strands of scrap yarn—especially if you're working with slippery or delicate fibers like silk or rayon.
Open a tabby shed when passing knots through the reed and heddles: If knots are catching or struggling to pass through the reed or heddles, opening a tabby shed—raising every other warp thread—creates extra space. This reduces snagging, eases the threading process, and helps prevent breakage.

Final Thoughts

Like many weaving techniques, tying on a new warp rewards patience and precision. It may feel slow at first, but with practice, it becomes a reliable way to save time, reduce waste, and keep your creative momentum going. Whether you're continuing a project, switching colors, or simply avoiding the hassle of re-threading, this method can help you weave smarter—not just faster. So take your time, trust the process, and enjoy the rewards of your newly gained skill.

All images and videos courtesy of Carolyn Heacock.

About Carolyn Heacock

When Carolyn Heacock was in elementary school, she wove a small basket in art class. That project planted the weaving seed in her, which wasn’t watered until January 2020, when she took her first weaving class. She’s never looked back. Since then, she has acquired a rigid heddle loom, two floor looms, and small tapestry looms made by her husband. She loves to weave utilitarian items, including hand towels, placemats, table runners, rugs, scarves, bookmarks, and coasters. In addition to weaving, she enjoys quilting, hiking, bike riding, and spending time with her family.

Currency

Shopping Cart