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I have lately become obsessed with weaving Krokbragd on my Rigid Heddle loom. I’m intrigued by the design possibilities and the many uses for the resulting sturdy fabric. But dealing with the warp ends presents a challenge. Krokbragd is too thick to be hemmed, and simple knotted fringes can look a bit sloppy, especially after they have been used for a while.
So what to do with those pesky warp ends, especially on mug rugs, placemats and rugs, which don’t have seams and don’t require a lining? My favorite solutions are the Half-Damascus and Damascus edges.
A Half-Damascus edge makes a neat, secure edge that makes it easy to thread the warp ends back into the cloth. The full Damascus edge secures and arranges the warp ends so that they can be braided or twisted to form a tidy fringe.
Half-Damascus Edge
Full Damascus Edge
1. Begin and end each piece with a header to secure the warp ends once the piece is cut off the loom.
2. Be sure to make the headers long enough to give you sufficient warp on each end to work the edge. Six inches (including the portion secured by headers) is usually ample, unless you want a very long fringe. If weaving multiple items on the same warp, double up on the allowance between pieces, weave loosely with scrap yarn between each piece.
3. When the weaving is complete, remove the weaving from the loom. If you wove more than one item, separate each one from the next by cutting the warp at the midpoint of the scrap yarn dividers. Wait to steam-finish or wet-finish the item until after you make your edging.
4. Secure the warp ends with a series of half-hitches worked from right to left on the wrong side:
a. Place the weaving on a table, right-side down, and put a book or other weight on it to stabilize it while you work the edging. Carefully remove the header from the first few warp ends.
b. Take the outermost warp end (warp 1) over the next warp end (warp 2).
c. Take warp 1 back under warp 2.
d. With one hand, hold warp 2 taut, and with the other hand, pull warp 1 up to snug the half-hitch against the edge of the weaving. Leave warp 1 up and angling towards the edge of the weaving. This can be a bit tricky for the first few half-hitches, but as you go it will become easier.
e. Repeat from step b., taking warp 2 over and under the next warp end and so forth to the other side, removing the header as you go.
f. When you are done, the last warp end on the other side will remain lying down away from the weaving, while the others will tend to lie more naturally up on the weaving.
5. You now have a choice:
a. For a Half-Damascus edge, finish by threading the warp ends into the back of the weaving and trimming them. It’s best to do this immediately; the half-hitches have a tendency to loosen up if they are left sitting.
b. To make a full Damascus Edge, turn the weaving over to the right side and do a second series of half-hitches (steps 4 b-e). When completed, the warp ends will lie flat below the weaving, and can be braided or twisted if you choose.
For a bulkier edging, make the half-hitches with four warp ends instead of two.
Give these edgings a try when weaving Gist projects like the Krokbragd Mug Rugs, Rhythmic Rug, Blue Hour Tapestry, or the Pick and Pick Coasters.
All images courtesy of Karen G. Krueger.
Karen G. Krueger is a retired lawyer in New York City. After decades of knitting and some excursions into teaching the Alexander Technique, she took up rigid-heddle weaving in earnest during the COVID-19 pandemic. She also enjoys choral singing, playing the piano, learning languages, photography and travel.
