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How To Hem Projects With Disproportionate Draw-in
Have you ever woven a cloth that has a significant difference in draw-in between the Plain Weave hem versus the weave structure that is the primary focus of your piece? A great example of this is Waffle Weave. Those deep, thirsty pockets that make the final piece so squishy and absorbent, can have a significant draw-in rate that makes managing a Plain Weave hem challenging. If hemmed in the traditional folded and sewn way, by turning the ends twice and sewing without any additional considerations, the hem can flare out and bow significantly, making the ends of your piece more of an arc than a straight line.
Solutions
There are a variety of ways that weavers work to accommodate for this differential. Using a thinner weft thread for your hems can help. For example, if your piece is a towel, woven in 8/2 cotton, use a 10/2 or even a sewing thread for your hem weft. The thinner weight of the yarn can help even out the difference.
My favorite way to deal with the hem flare is a combination of pre-planning, and what I refer to as an “origami” hem. Having a sensitivity while weaving the hems, as well as a careful hemming process helps minimize the draw-in on the final sewing of the hem.
In this example, notice the initial flare of the hem after the wet-finishing process. This is the extra width that needs to be reduced during hemming.
The "Origami" Method: Step-by-Step
For all hems, I prefer to secure the edges (in this example I chose to serge them) and then wet-finish the pieces before hemming. This allows the cloth to draw in as it will during regular use and wash.
STEP ONE
The first step starts at the loom. Knowing ahead of time that you will be adjusting for this draw-in difference will change how you weave the selvedges in the hems. Contrary to instinct, you will want to purposefully pull your weft thread on your Plain Weave hem so that it draws in more than normal. Notice the compressed warp threads along the right selvedge. This will reduce the amount of extra width that will be sewn in the hem.
STEP TWO
With a hot iron, do not press, but steam the hem until it has a rippled appearance. This will help align the Plain Weave hem with the pattern in the body, and bring the selvedge edges closer in alignment.
By contrast, if you were to just press the hem flat, the flare of the hem would be accentuated.
STEP THREE
Place a few stabilizing pins along the edge of the rippled steamed hem, to ensure that the vertical warp lines remain vertical.
Using the pinned location as a guide, with a hot iron, slowly press the hem, easing the ripples flat and removing the pins as you go. This is similar to how you ease a curved hem in a garment. Work slowly to keep the cloth from shifting.
STEP FOUR
Once the hem has been eased into vertical alignment, give it a hard press to set the threads. Notice that the stripes align perfectly now within the draw in of the Waffle Weave body of the towel.
STEP FIVE
To further reduce the flare on the edges, give the selvedge edge a 30-45 degree fold towards the center of the piece, and give this angle a hard press. Repeat for all corners. This will help further reduce the tips of the hem from flaring out when sewn.
STEP SIX
Keeping the corners folded, turn and press the full seam once and press, and then a second time and press, as you would for any other turned hem.
STEP SEVEN
Machine-sew the hem in place, working slowly across the fabric. Take care that your cloth is perpendicular to the sewing machine. If the piece is pulled on the diagonal, the hem will stretch to a point, and all your careful preparations will be lost.
STEP EIGHT
Enjoy your piece!
The extra time and care in both the weaving and the finishing process will result in a beautifully finished piece that reduces that dreaded “ear” effect that can happen in pieces with differential shrinkage between the body and the hem.
Process photos courtesy of Kristina Nichols. Final photo courtesy of Ian Justice.
About Kristina Nichols
Kristina Nichols is a textile artist based in Traverse City, Michigan. Utilizing traditional textile techniques, she creates heirloom quality textiles for the body and the home. A weaver and hand-dyer since 1994, she exhibits her work around the country under the company name Just a Little Warped, and teaches regularly for North House Folk School in Grand Marais, MN and regionally in northern Michigan. Her focus is on excellent craftsmanship to create pieces that are both beautiful and highly functional. Her one of a kind pieces and micro-collections are inspired by colors and textures in nature.