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Rep Weave is a warp-faced structure where the warp yarns dominate the weaving, making the weft yarns nearly invisible. This versatile technique is suitable for a variety of projects, including rugs, placemats, trivets and bags. Rep Weave is traditionally a multi-shaft loom technique that uses alternating thick and thin picks to produce thick, ribbed fabric in bold, geometric patterns, or only thick picks to create alternating stripes. However, it can also be adapted for use with a rigid heddle loom.
There are many advantages to using Rep Weave on a rigid heddle loom. First, the warping process is quick because the yarns can be direct-warped through every slot and hole in the reed. Another perk is that Rep Weave is a simple Plain Weave structure requiring no pick-up sticks or additional manipulations during the weaving process. Additionally, projects weave quickly since the weft incorporates thick picks.
Creating well-defined ridges requires a combination of a dense warp and a thick weft. To create a dense warp, increase the ends per inch (EPI) by 2 to 3 times. For example, instead of Mallo Cotton Slub at 12 EPI or Beam 3/2 Organic Cotton at 10, try them at 24 and 30 EPI. The denser the warp, the less visible the weft. Speaking of weft, multiple strands of the warp yarn, repurposed fabrics, mop cotton, and macrame cord are all good candidates for the thick weft.
Two factors determine the color blocks in the weaving: the order of the colors in the warp and the thickness of the weft.
Block 1 uses a single color for warping and employs only thick wefts, resulting in a vertical stripe of color.
Warp: Thread Color A through both slots and holes.
Weft: Use only thick picks.
Warp: Thread Color A through the slots and Color B through the holes.
Weft: Use only thick picks.
Block 3 uses a single color when warping and alternates between thick and thin picks in the weft. Like Block 1, this creates a vertical stripe of color.
Warp: Thread Color A through both slots and holes.
Weft: Alternate thick & thin picks, starting with a thick pick when the reed is lowered.
Block 4 alternates between two colors in the slots and holes and alternates between a thick pick when the reed is lowered and a thin pick when the reed is raised, resulting in a vertical stripe of color.
Warp: Thread Color A through the slots and Color B through the holes.
Weft: Alternate thick & thin picks, starting with a thick pick when the reed is lowered.
Once you know how to create color blocks on a rigid heddle loom, the design possibilities of Rep Weave are limitless. When designing a project, there are a few things to consider as you create your design.
1. To create a vertical stripe of one color, thread that color through both the slots and holes of the reed.
2. To create two sets of horizontal bars with Color A as the first bar in Set 1 and Color B as the first bar in Set 2, use thick weft picks and follow this warping pattern:
3. To create two sets of rectangles (larger than one pick) with Color A as the first rectangle in Set 1 and Color B as the first rectangle in Set 2, alternate thick and thin weft picks, starting with a thick pick when the reed is lowered.
4. To change the dominant color in the previous example, omit a thin pick. This will cause the threads in the holes to be more visible than the threads in the slots.
Click here to see examples of ways to incorporate these techniques into a cohesive design.
As you apply these techniques to your own designs, experiment with different color and block combinations to create unique and beautiful fabrics. For example, in some parts of the design, you could use only thick wefts to create horizontal stripes of color that alternate with each pick. In other parts of the design, you could alternate thick and thin wefts to create larger blocks of horizontal color. Incorporating both techniques in your design will allow you to vary the height of your blocks, producing creative, geometric patterns.
If you're new to warp-faced weaving on a rigid heddle loom, the Ribs and Symmetry Table Set is an excellent starting point. This monochromatic warp takes advantage of a thick warp and thick weft picks to create a ribbed structure.
Another beginner-friendly project is the Bars and Stripes Bathmat. This project introduces you to creating horizontal bars by incorporating alternating colors in sections of the warp. Like the placemats from the Table Set, it uses only thick weft picks, requiring just one shuttle, resulting in speedy weaving and a luxurious bathmat.
When Carolyn Heacock was in elementary school, she wove a small basket in art class. That project planted the weaving seed in her, which wasn’t watered until January 2020, when she took her first weaving class. She’s never looked back. Since then, she has acquired a rigid heddle loom, two floor looms, and small tapestry looms made by her husband. She loves to weave utilitarian items, including hand towels, placemats, table runners, rugs, scarves, bookmarks, and coasters. In addition to weaving, she enjoys quilting, hiking, bike riding, and spending time with her family.
